Ashengoot

Suzanne Zeidy and Rawah Badrawi describe Ashengoot as a Siwan wedding staple in Egypt: a whole goose is simmered and goose-and-boiled-egg wraps are handed to guests. Their published recipe is their own goose-leg adaptation, rather than a full statement of every wedding recipe.

Their method simmers goose legs with onion, mastic, bay leaves, black pepper, cinnamon and cardamom until tender, then cools and shreds the meat. Thin flour-and-water flatbreads are brushed with olive oil and cooked on a griddle or pan; boiled eggs are cooled, peeled and quartered.

For this adaptation, the authors describe a tangy date-and-olive-oil emulsion. Its sauce also contains lemon juice and chilli flakes. A spoonful is spread on each flatbread before goose, egg and spring onions are added; the sides are folded and the bread is rolled into a slender wrap.

Before you order, ask which bird is used, what the bread contains and whether the date sauce, egg and spring onions are included. The authors allow chicken or duck if goose is unavailable, so the bird should be confirmed. Their recipe does not specify the whole wrap’s serving temperature.