Ilish shukto

Debjani Chatterjee Alam’s Ilish Shukto brings Hilsa head, tail and other pieces together with six vegetables in a Bengali curry. Bitter gourd gives her version its bitter element, while whole and powdered five-spice blends, mustard and poppy-seed pastes season the broth.

The fish is marinated with salt and part of the turmeric. Potato, plantain, sweet potato and drumstick are peeled and cut into long strips; bitter gourd and eggplant keep their skins and are seasoned with salt and turmeric.

Mustard oil shallow-fries the fish on both sides, with extra frying for the head and tail. The vegetables fry one by one before the same remaining oil is tempered with bay leaves, whole Panch Phoron and the named Randhuni.

Ginger, mustard and poppy-seed pastes cook with a small water addition. Salt, sugar and powdered Panch Phoron follow; milk and the main water are brought to a boil before the fried potato, sweet potato and plantain cook until soft.

Drumstick, fried eggplant and bitter gourd enter before the fried fish returns. The curry cooks gently under a lid, with extra water if needed, and ghee is mixed in before the heat is turned off. This selected version includes the bitter gourd, turmeric, milk and ghee that the author also offers as optional ingredients.