Kashmiri begun

Ashima Goyal Siraj’s Kashmiri Begun, published as Kashmiri Baingan, serves deep-fried yogurt-coated eggplant beneath a smooth tomato-and-onion gravy. Her version adds onion and garlic to a recipe she noted during a visit to Jodhpur.

Asafoetida, salt, part of the turmeric and part of the Kashmiri red chilli powder are mixed into thick plain yogurt. The eggplant is cubed, coated in this marinade, left briefly and deep-fried until golden brown.

Tomatoes are cross-cut and boiled whole in water, then run through separate cold water so their skins peel off. The peeled tomatoes are puréed for the gravy.

Chopped garlic and onion are sautéed in vegetable oil until the onion softens. The tomato purée and the remaining turmeric and chilli powder are mixed in and cooked until oil appears at the sides, then the gravy is removed from heat and smoothed with a hand blender.

The fried eggplant pieces are arranged on a platter and covered with the tomato-onion gravy. Supplied grated paneer and green chilli slivers finish the dish as garnishes.