Onsen tamago

Namiko Hirasawa Chen’s home onsen tamago recreates the Japanese hot-spring egg with a pot of water. She describes silky whites and custard-like yolks, served with a dashi-based sauce.

Water is boiled in a small heavy-bottomed pot before the heat is switched off and the pot moved away from the stove. A separate portion of cold tap water joins it.

Four refrigerated eggs are gently lowered into the same water and the pot is covered for poaching. After removal, the eggs rest before their shells are cracked for serving.

Prepared dashi, mirin, soy sauce and bonito flakes are boiled together for the complete sauce. The heat is switched off and the same sauce is strained through a sieve.

The author serves the eggs warm or at room temperature in small bowls, with sauce and sliced scallion. She recalls enjoying them at Japanese inn breakfasts; her rice, curry and noodle pairings remain separate dishes.