Theeyal

Dassana Amit presents Ulli Theeyal as the pearl-onion form of Theeyal, a Kerala curry built around roasted coconut, spices and tamarind. She places this gravy dish in Onam Sadya and describes its sour, spiced character.

Pearl onions are soaked, peeled and rinsed. Seedless tamarind soaks separately in hot water; its pulp is squeezed into that same soaking water for the curry.

The paste begins with coriander, cumin, whole black pepper, fenugreek and the selected dried red chilies fried in coconut oil. Fresh grated coconut joins them and is roasted golden. After cooling, the mixture and its oil are ground smooth with a separate portion of water.

Another portion of coconut oil cooks the pearl onions until their edges lightly brown. Turmeric, the tamarind mixture and the roasted paste are added, followed by cooking water, salt and the chosen optional jaggery, which the author uses to balance the sourness.

A separate coconut-oil tempering crackles mustard seeds before curry leaves and dried red chili are fried in it. The entire tempering goes into the simmered curry, which rests covered briefly before being served hot with the selected steamed-rice accompaniment.