Cocada

Paloma Jorge Amado’s cocada combines fresh grated coconut with a sugar syrup. Panelinha publishes this moist version from her book A Comida Baiana de Jorge Amado, describing it alongside the cocadas on a baiana’s tray.

Sugar and water are dissolved together and heated without stirring to a soft-ball syrup. A spoonful of syrup in very cold water tests the stage; a little water may be brushed around the pan if its sides begin to burn.

Off the heat, fresh grated coconut is added to the syrup. The pan returns to low heat and the coconut mixture cooks with occasional stirring.

A baking tray is lined with baking paper and sprinkled with a separate measure of sugar. The cocada is taken off the heat and stirred until cool, then two spoons transfer small mounds onto the prepared tray.

The tray is covered with film and refrigerated until the cocadas firm. The fresh coconut and sugar syrup form the moist sweets that Panelinha associates with Bahia’s baiana trays and the wider Brazilian repertoire.