Colonial goose

Chrissie Lamb’s version of colonial goose uses a stuffed mutton leg and a separate lamb loin. The Blackface Meat Company publishes her recipe, which finishes the carved mutton with slices of the lightly seared loin.

Semi-dried apricots and chopped onion go into the stuffing with melted butter, honey, seasonings and a beaten egg. The source disagrees about its cereal ingredient: pinhead oats appear in the list, while the method calls for breadcrumbs.

Carrot, onion, bay, thyme, wild peppercorns, parsley stalks and red wine form the marinade. The boned mutton is loosely stuffed and closed before the marinade and bones are added.

The marinade and bones move to the roasting pan, with vegetables briefly fried before being added. The mutton roasts above them, is basted with the marinade, then rests while the pan liquor is strained for gravy.

The lamb loin is seasoned with pepper, seared, rested and sliced. It is placed over the carved mutton, with a spring-onion-and-potato cake and fresh spring greens alongside.