Khao Man Gai

Pailin Chongchitnant’s selected khao man gai follows her family’s Thai chicken-rice preparation. A whole chicken is gently poached, and some of its broth cooks jasmine rice first tossed in rendered chicken fat and garlic.

Garlic, onion, selected cilantro roots, white peppercorns and sliced ginger infuse the initial broth, with optional daikon. The chicken is trimmed of excess fat before it enters the seasoned liquid, then lifted out to cool after poaching.

The fat trimmings are rendered for the rice, and the leftover solids are removed. Chopped garlic cooks in the fat before washed and drained jasmine rice is tossed through it; a measured portion of the chicken broth then cooks the rice.

The family serves two own sauces together: a ginger-and-tao-jiew sauce with black soy and vinegar, and the grandmother’s separate garlic, chili, cilantro and lime sauce. Their different aromatics give two ways to season the tender chicken and fragrant rice.

Carved chicken is served over the rice beside sliced cucumber, both sauces and a bowl of the remaining broth. Optional green onion and cilantro can garnish that broth; the accompanying family account places this meal among Thailand’s familiar street-food preparations.