Falafel

Ottolenghi’s falafel recipe uses dried chickpeas with onion, garlic, flat-leaf parsley and coriander. Its accompanying memory follows Sami Tamimi buying freshly fried falafel and hummus for his older brothers in Jerusalem, with warm falafel and pita carried home together.

Chickpeas soak in cold water overnight, then drain before being combined with the chopped aromatics and herbs. The mixture passes twice through a fine meat grinder, or is pulsed in a food processor until finely chopped and able to hold together.

Cayenne, cumin, ground coriander and cardamom season the mixture. Baking powder, plain flour, salt and a little water are mixed in by hand before the covered mixture rests in the refrigerator.

Wet hands press portions into patties or small walnut-sized balls. A little sesame is sprinkled over the surface before the pieces are deep-fried in batches, forming well-browned falafel.

The fried pieces drain on kitchen paper and are served at once. The recipe’s texture starts with a finely chopped chickpea mixture rather than a mushy paste, which is then pressed firmly into shapes before frying.